Soho is filled with places that demand attention. Neon signs spill onto pavements, restaurant hosts call out from doorways and queues form outside the latest openings before the doors have even opened for service.
Then there are the places that do the exact opposite.
The kind of venues you could walk past a hundred times without noticing. No fanfare. No obvious entrance. No social media friendly gimmicks designed to stop you mid-scroll. Just a discreet doorway hiding something far more interesting below street level.
Tucked beneath Frith Street, The Black Book is one of Soho’s best kept secrets. Founded by Master Sommeliers Gearoid Devaney and Xavier Rousset, the underground wine bar and restaurant has quietly built a reputation amongst those who take their wine seriously, while remaining refreshingly welcoming to those who simply enjoy a good glass and a great atmosphere.
After spending an evening there recently, it’s easy to understand why it has become one of Soho’s most sought-after late-night destinations.
Descending Into Soho’s Hidden Wine Den
Part of The Black Book’s appeal is the sense of discovery.
From street level, there is very little to indicate what lies beneath. Step downstairs, however, and the atmosphere shifts immediately.
The space feels reminiscent of a private members’ lounge crossed with an old-world wine cellar. Dark walls, low lighting and carefully curated displays of bottles create a moody, intimate environment that feels worlds away from the chaos unfolding above on Frith Street.
There is a distinct cigar room energy to the interiors, despite the absence of cigars themselves. Comfortable lounge seating, hidden corners and softly illuminated shelves lined with wine create a space that encourages lingering.
This is not somewhere for a quick drink before moving on elsewhere.
It is somewhere you settle into for the evening.
Whether arriving for a date night, after-work drinks or the start of a long Friday night in Soho, the setting immediately delivers exactly what you hope a wine bar of this calibre should.
A Wine List That Lives Up To The Hype
With two Master Sommeliers behind the concept, expectations naturally sit high when it comes to the wine programme.
Thankfully, The Black Book delivers.
The wine list is extensive without feeling intimidating, balancing classic regions with more exploratory discoveries. It is the sort of list that rewards curiosity whether you’re ordering a £12 glass or working your way through some of the rarer bottles hidden within the venue’s famed handwritten Black Book collection.
For our visit, we opted for the 2023 Mâcon-Villages, Sol et Roche, Selection XR, Burgundy.
Light, crisp and beautifully refreshing, it struck exactly the right balance for the meal ahead. There was enough freshness and minerality to keep things lively, while still carrying enough character to stand up against some of the richer dishes we had ordered.
The team were knowledgeable, approachable and happy to guide guests through the list without a hint of pretension, something that is surprisingly rare in venues built around serious wine.
Elevated Comfort Food Done Right
While wine may be the headline act, the food deserves far more attention than simply being labelled bar snacks.
Executive Chef Rob Weston has created a menu that sits comfortably between wine bar grazing and proper dinner territory, making Black Book equally suitable for drinks or a full evening meal.
We began with the Crispy Buttermilk Chicken with Sriracha Mayo.
Perfectly crisp on the outside while remaining juicy within, it delivered exactly the kind of satisfying indulgence you want alongside a glass of Burgundy. The sriracha mayo added enough heat without overwhelming the dish.
For mains, we shared the Wagyu Brisket Burger and the 6oz Charcoal-Grilled Ribeye Steak.
Both arrived accompanied by crisp skinny fries and showcased the kitchen’s ability to execute straightforward dishes exceptionally well.
The Wagyu brisket burger was packed with flavour, layered with baby gem, beef tomato, dill pickles and house sauce. Rich without becoming heavy, it felt indulgent in all the right ways.
However, those in the know should also ask about Black Book’s secret off-menu burger. A decadent creation layered with truffle and melted brie, it is exactly the sort of insider order you hope to discover in a Soho wine bar. Rich, indulgent and unapologetically decadent, it perfectly captures the venue’s after-dark personality and pairs exceptionally well with a glass of Burgundy.
The ribeye was equally impressive. Cooked beautifully, deeply flavoured and paired with Black Book butter, it delivered everything you hope for from a steak ordered in a wine-focused restaurant. Both mains showcased excellent quality meat, packed with flavour and elevated by the simple addition of perfectly crisp skinny fries.
A Lighter Finish Than Expected
Dessert comes in the form of a single offering.
The Banana & Toffee Cheesecake may sound rich on paper, but in reality it provides a surprisingly light conclusion to the meal.
Rather than leaning heavily into sweetness, the dessert carries a more yoghurt-like profile that feels refreshing after the richness of the preceding dishes. The banana and toffee notes remain present, but never dominate.
It is an interesting choice and one that works particularly well given the heavier, meat-led focus of much of the menu.
Sometimes one well-executed dessert is all you need.
Service That Keeps The Evening Flowing
Perhaps what impressed most throughout the evening was the service.
Attentive without becoming intrusive, friendly without feeling scripted, the team struck the balance that so many restaurants struggle to achieve. Wine glasses were never left empty for long, recommendations felt genuine and at no point did we feel rushed through the experience.
There always seemed to be someone nearby ready to top up a glass, offer advice or simply ensure everything was running smoothly. The hospitality felt polished yet relaxed, perfectly suited to the venue’s atmosphere.
The Perfect Place To Start A Soho Weekend
To finish, we swapped wine for a pair of spicy margaritas.
Bright, refreshing and carrying just enough heat, they provided the perfect transition from dinner into Friday night. The kind of cocktail that makes you glance at your watch and realise the evening is still young.
In a neighbourhood constantly chasing the next big opening, Black Book feels refreshingly confident in what it is. A serious wine bar without the snobbery. A restaurant without unnecessary theatrics. A late-night Soho hideaway where atmosphere, hospitality and excellent wine remain firmly at the centre of everything.
Between the exceptional wine list, late licence, hidden basement setting and even a secret off-menu truffle and brie burger, Black Book feels like the sort of Soho address that regulars quietly recommend to one another rather than broadcast to the masses.
And perhaps most importantly, it still feels like a secret.
Location: Black Book, 23 Frith Street, Soho, London W1D 3RR
Book here.
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